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The classic Craftsman style comes to life in the permanence of stone. The lighted stone column mailbox features a paper box, large mailbox, lighted cap, post lamp, embedded address plaque, and an exterior outlet.  

 

 

The pictures below are just a sample of what is in the photo gallery, visit the gallery to check out all the pictures of this project:

View the Photo Gallery

 

Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox
Mailbox

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I recently had the pleasure of building a Mission style cherry coffee table using components from Osborne Wood Products. Osborne Wood products provided the legs, skirt boards and corner braces. I made the table top with a few eye catching features like bread board ends and pyramid shaped plugs.


Part II coming SOON A second video is being worked on now that details how the breadboard table top is contructed.



Details on making breadboard ends

"A breadboard end is a narrow piece that is mechanically joined to the end of a larger panel. The purpose is to support and maintain the rigidity of the panel, while allowing the panel to shrink or expand across the grain." - excerpt from an article on FWW.com by Mario Rodriguez titled All About Breadboard Ends



Step 1 - form a tenon on the end of the board by using the tablesaw and the router table
Breadboard Ends Breadboard Ends



Step 2 - the long tenon is fine-tuned to match the mortise that is made in the end piece.
Breadboard Ends Breadboard Ends



Step 3 - when there's a good fit between the breadboard end and the table top, square holes are made in the end of the breadboard to house the screws that attached the end to the table top.
Breadboard Ends Breadboard Ends



Step 4 - the breadboard ends are attached using glue on only the center 6 inches of the joint. The screws through the end (elongated holes) add strength and stability to the joint.
Breadboard Ends Breadboard Ends



Step 5 - pyramid headed plugs are formed using the crosscut sled. The plugs are glued into the square holes to hide the screws.
Breadboard Ends Breadboard Ends

Arts and Crafts Cabinet

by John W. Nixon on February 7 2010 18:17

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This classic looking Arts and Crafts style cabinet was designed to have a television sit on top, with the audio video equipment on the open shelf. There's generous cabinet space below which is concealed by two locking frame and panel doors. The appearance and design is true to the Arts and Crafts motif, but under the covers, this piece hides a dark secret.

 

The entire process of constructing this cabinet was filmed, and the video is being edited now (2/8/2010). I expect part one of this series to be released in a about a week.

 

You may be surprised to discover that this cabinet started it's life as a mid-sixties dresser made by the R-WAY company. I gave the piece a dramatic makover and transformed it into a classic Arts and Crafts cabinet (asthetically at least).

 

From the pictures in the gallery you can see that this piece present many of the American Arts and Crafts features (too bad they're almost all fake).

  • Through Mortise and Tenon pinned joinery
  • Corbels supporting the overhanging top
  • Quartersawn white oak construction
  • Arched base
  • Frame and panel construction
  • Hand-hammered hardware with antique lockset
  • Backsplash

 

The Original Piece
I wanted to do something with this well made dresser I had stowed in the closet. My neighbor was moving and asked if I wanted this piece. I can't refuse anything made of wood (especially if it has dovetails!). This dresser had bow front drawers and a very dark finish. The piece didn't appeal to my tastes, so it sat in the closet for about 3 years. The need for a place to set my new TV arose, and I figured I could give this old dark dresser a makover into something that suited my tastes.
Original Dresser

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This project is a queen sized bed inspired by a Stickley Panel bed. I didn't have anything to go on other than the picture from the Stickley web site, and the overall dimensions. I set to work drawing up my own plans from these two bits of information.


The construction of the bed features through mortise and tenon joints connecting the horizontal rails to the posts. The headboard and the footboard have a frame and panel construction where vertical stiles contain the panels and connect the two horizontal stiles. The top horizontal stiles on the headboard and footboard have a broad inverted V shape that is characteristic of a number of Stickley pieces.


Update 5/30/09 - I am almost done with the first three videos for this series. I cover how to make the panels in part 1, how to make the horizontal rails in part 2, and how to make the vertical stiles and assemble the frame and panel section in part 3. If all goes well, all three parts should be released Sunday night (5/31/09)

Stickley Panel Bed in progress Stickley Panel Bed in progress
Stickley Panel Bed in progress Stickley Panel Bed in progress

Update 5/24/09 - Work on the bed is progressing nicely. I made the tenons on the horizontal rails using the crosscut sled and the bandsaw. The crosscut sled took care of the shoulder cuts, and the bandsaw cut off the cheeks. Overall, I'm please with this method, but I'd rather be using my tenon jig. The length of these piece prohibited the use of the tenon jig (too tall, they would hit the ceiling, and it would be a little akward).

Stickley Panel Bed in progress Stickley Panel Bed in progress
Stickley Panel Bed in progress Stickley Panel Bed in progress
Stickley Panel Bed in progress Stickley Panel Bed in progress

Update 5/17/09 - Filming of this project is underway. I've posted some in progress shots below. Stay tuned, I hope to have the first video in the series out soon. Please post any questions or comments you have about this poject.

Stickley Panel Bed in progress Stickley Panel Bed in progress
Stickley Panel Bed in progress Stickley Panel Bed in progress

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The Super Sled combines two of my best shop jigs!

 

I love my original crosscut sled, so when you (the viewers) asked me to make a video about how to make that sled, I started to think of ways to improve upon the existing design.

 

I regularly use two different sleds in my shop:
1. My crosscut sled which I use mainly for crosscutting, and cutting shoulder cuts on tenons.
2. Wood Magazines Universal Tablesaw Jig which I use exclusively for mitering.

 

While contemplating ways to improve on the design of my crosscut sled, I started to focus on the concept of combining the two sleds. I spent a lot of time modeling the new Super Sled in Google Sketchup and I feel I have come up with one of the most versatile crosscut / mitering sleds around. When you see the video for the construction of the sled, I think you'll be surprised at how easy it is to build for yourself!

 

The video for how to build the SuperSled will be filmed later this month (Feb 2009)

 

Crosscutting
The Super Sled has all the benefits of my original crosscut sled, including a t-track for adjustable stop blocks. The new sled uses a flip stop, so you can keep the stop in the same place, but flip it up out of the way to make other cuts in between.

With generous capacity to the left and right of the saw blade, the Super Sled can handle just about any crosscut. The main fence is extended out farther on the left side of the blade allowing you to use the flip stop for long cuts.
Mitering
I really love mitering with Wood Magazines Universal Tablesaw jig which is why I wanted to incorporate all the features of this jig into the Super Sled. The Universal Tablesaw jig needs to be switched from one side of the blade to the other when doing complementary miters. With an identical setup on both sides of the blade, you can easily miter on either side of the blade.

The fence used for mitering has a t-track for mounting a stop block or hold downs and can be positioned any where from 0 to about 70 degrees.
Versatility
I designed the Super Sled with versatility in mind. The four slots in the main board of the fence function the same as t-tracks, and allow for the inclusion of stop blocks, the miter fence, and other add-on jigs like a tenon or box joint jig.

The main board for the super sled is 1/2 inch plywood. I went with 1/2 inch plywood so I wouldn't loose very much blade height capacity. The four slots in the main board are 3/8 inch wide from the top, and have a 3/4 inch wide shallow recess in the bottom and will accomodate a standard 5/16 inch t-bolt.

 

Update - 3/22/2009: There are now two Accessory videos available. The Stop Block and the Tenon Jig have been added to the video collection.


Tenon Jig Tenon Jig

 

Update - 4/05/2009: Mitering Fence Video Released - The latest video in the Super Sled series shows the construction of the fence and two different kind of stop blocks. The setup process for mitering with the fence is also shown.


Tenon Jig Tenon Jig

 

A friend of Eagle Lake writes an informative Instructables article describing the steps to make his souped up version of the Super Sled - Joe Laviolette made some really cool additions to the Super Sled design - one notable improvement is the concept of a removable zero clearance insert. Read all about Joe's sled and how to make it in this well documented pictorial tutorial:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-better-cross-cut-sled/

 

A friend of Eagle Lake offers some Super Sled improvements: Bob McCormick came up with two great suggestions for improving the usability of the Super Sled. The first suggestion was a great find - a right angled t-track that has a t-track on the top and a second t-track at a right angle to the first. Bob mounted this t-track to the main rear fence after cutting a rabbit. Having a a t-track on the top and face of the fence opens up some nice possibilities for mounting accessories.


Tenon Jig Tenon Jig

The second improvement Bob came up with is great - he designed a simple solution to stow the miter fences on the back of the main fence. He installed some threaded inserts into the back of the main fence where he can mounted the miter fences by using a thumbscrew to hold it in place.


Tenon Jig Tenon Jig

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